Beyond the tourist trap of Khan Al Khalili, a famous bazaar district filled with rowdy shopkeepers and unimpressed street cats, the backstreets are numbered with winding maze-like alleyways from which foreigners tend to steer clear.  The narrow, broken down roads, dishevelled looking characters and smells that I wouldn’t want my worst enemy to inhale may not seem so welcoming at first sight, but with the aid of a helpful young chap by the name of … you guessed it…Mohamed, the end-all be-all name for all Egyptian men that walk this earth, put on his tour guide hat and led us throughout the back alleys where people’s livelihoods are gained.