The remnants of power, greed, sacrifice, love - all inscribed skillfully, methodically along the eroding structures that remain of the ancients. We were one of the very few people touring the marvels of Aswan. While enjoying the incredible Roman-inspired columns of the Philae Temple and the delicious taste of freshly squeezed lemon juice, guilt does tend to creep in, considering the reality of the state that surrounds us. The tourist industry in Upper Egypt has plummeted so severely since the revolution. The livelihoods of the Aswanese, especially of the Nubian community heavily dependent on tourism as their main source of income, have eroded in such a sort span of time. It is no wonder that our tour guides were so happy to host us. As we zip through the waters of the southern Nile, we try to become more conscious of our surroundings. Beyond the stories carved into stone lasting multiple centuries, but of the resilience of those who keep the fire of hope burning, even when the harbour is full of boats.